the new scarpa mago a comprehensive review

The New Scarpa Mago: A Comprehensive Review

The Mago Basics

High-End Asymmetric Shoe Design

The Scarpa Mago is not just another climbing shoe—it is built for the steep. Wondering what makes it different? This high-end, asymmetric shoe brings a unique approach to climbing shoe design, engineered specifically for challenging terrains.

The Material: Microfiber Upper and Footbed

An excellent mix of comfort and functionality, the Mago boasts a microfiber upper and footbed. This type of material not only enhances the shoe’s overall durability but also makes it a comfortable companion for those long climbs.

Vibram’s XS Grip 2 Rubber and M50 Rubber Toe Cap

Ensuring top-notch friction and stability on slippery surfaces, the Mago sports 3.5mm of Vibram’s XS Grip 2 rubber. Its one-third length sole is topped off with a super-sticky M50 rubber toe cap, perfect for a secure grip.

The Pros of Scarpa Mago

The Fast Break-In Period

Who likes to wait around for their new climbing shoes to soften? With the Scarpa Mago, the break-in period is swift, ensuring the shoes become comfortable in no time.

Steep-Edging Performance

The Mago shines in its steep-edging performance. The powerful and precise edging allows you to conquer those daunting, vertical routes that would typically require more rigid shoes.

Comfort vs. Performance

The Scarpa Mago not only excels in terms of high performance but also impresses with its comfort. Its supple heel cup equipped with Scarpa’s “PAF” system ensures maximum comfort relative to its high performance.

Perforated Toe Cap and Breathable Tongue

The Mago’s perforated toe cap relieves pressure on bunched-up toes, making it an excellent choice for climbers seeking comfort on longer climbs. Plus, its breathable tongue keeps your feet airy and comfortable.

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The Cons of Scarpa Mago

The Vertical Edging Limitation

Despite the Mago’s many strengths, it comes with its drawbacks. Its performance in vertical edging is not as supportive as previous models. This means that you might find it challenging to maintain grip on vertical edges.

Our Thoughts on The New Scarpa Mago

Versatility and Functionality

The Mago isn’t just another climbing shoe. It is a versatile beast that shines on steep terrains. Whether you’re tackling board-style granite boulders or limestone sport routes, the Mago offers superb versatility, almost like a chameleon adapting to its surroundings.

How the X-Tension Arch Support Works

The Mago comes with a unique “X-Tension” arch support that helps the shoe maintain its downturned shape, even under severe stress. This feature, combined with the fiberglass under the big toe, allows the shoe to edge admirably despite its softness.

Need for a Stiffer Sole

Despite its many advantages, some climbers might find the need for a stiffer sole, especially when trusting a single thin edge. The earlier Mago models excelled at this, leaving some room for improvement in the new Mago.

Sizing and Price Details

Size Reviewed and Weight

Our reviewed Mago comes in a size 41 and weighs 7.4oz (210g) per shoe. This makes it relatively lightweight, perfect for minimizing fatigue during prolonged climbing sessions.

Price and Brand

Priced at $209, the Scarpa Mago isn’t the cheapest option on the market, but the features it brings to the table make it well worth the investment. The Scarpa brand itself stands for quality and innovation, making the Mago a reliable choice for climbing enthusiasts.

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The Scarpa Mago is an impressive climbing shoe that stands out for its high performance, quick break-in period, and comfort. While it may not be as supportive in vertical edging as previous models, its versatility, high-end design, and innovative features make it a strong contender in the climbing shoe market.


  1. What is the Scarpa Mago best suited for?
    • The Scarpa Mago is best suited for steep and challenging terrains.
  2. What is the main drawback of the new Scarpa Mago?
    • Its performance in vertical edging is not as supportive as previous models.
  3. What makes the Scarpa Mago comfortable for longer climbs?
    • The Scarpa Mago boasts a perforated toe cap and a breathable tongue that enhance comfort during long climbs.
  4. Does the Scarpa Mago offer a fast break-in period?
    • Yes, one of the notable advantages of the Scarpa Mago is its fast break-in period.
  5. What size and weight does the Scarpa Mago come in?
    • The reviewed Scarpa Mago comes in a size 41 and weighs 7.4oz (210g) per shoe.

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