the hiangle pro review

The Hiangle Pro: Elevating Your Indoor Climbing Experience

In the world of climbing, precision, grip, and comfort are paramount. Whether you’re scaling the heights of a competition wall or honing your skills on an indoor bouldering circuit, having the right footwear can make all the difference. Enter the Five Ten Hiangle Pro – a revolutionary climbing shoe designed with the comp-style climber in mind. In this article, we’ll delve into the intricacies of this innovative shoe and explore how it can enhance your climbing experience.

A New Approach to Climbing Footwear

The Hiangle Pro distinguishes itself from its predecessor, the Hiangle, in several key ways:

1) Beveled Inside Sole

The inside sole of the Hiangle Pro is uniquely beveled, tapering from 3.5mm on the outer and middle portions to a rounded 2.1mm on the inside, which then seamlessly transitions into the rand. This design results in a shoe with only an inside edge at the toe tip.

2) Continuous Curve Heel

Unlike the regular Hiangle, the Hiangle Pro features a continuous curve heel, characterized by a squishy, 3D-molded “bulb.” This design eliminates the “mohawk” seen in the standard version, offering climbers a distinct advantage.

3) Minimalist Midsole

The Hiangle Pro’s midsole incorporates a minimalist fish-hook design, striking a delicate balance between providing adequate edging support while maintaining forefoot flexibility for smearing. This design is tailored to suit the dynamic demands of competition climbing.

The Science Behind the Changes

These three significant alterations were made with one primary goal in mind: to maximize rubber-to-volume contact without abrupt transitions. Climbers often find themselves in positions that require precise control over their footwear, such as rocking onto their toes or squatting high on a heel. The Hiangle Pro’s design minimizes any obstacles that might impede these movements, allowing for a seamless climbing experience.

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Unparalleled Sensitivity and Fit

The Hiangle Pro offers a sensitive and slipper-like feel that, when sized correctly, provides a glove-like fit. Climbers can expect exceptional precision on edges and jibs, thanks to the beveled sole. For many climbers, wearing their street-shoe size will yield the best results, especially when it comes to big-toe precision. However, it’s worth noting that the deep heel cup can make putting on and taking off the shoes a bit tricky, requiring a manual assist.

Craftsmanship Meets Expertise

The Hiangle Pro is the result of a collaborative effort between Five Ten and renowned Slovenian comp climber Domen Škofic, with input from climbing virtuoso Carlo Traversi. These individuals are masters of the new-school indoor dynamic climbing style, which demands precision and control in every move. While the Hiangle Pro is designed for elite climbers, even those less experienced can benefit from its exceptional qualities.

Versatility Beyond Expectations

The Hiangle Pro’s versatility shines in situations where climbers need to use their feet like hands. Whether you’re executing mobile, dragging heel hooks along obelisk volumes or attempting blind toe scums around arêtes, the Hiangle Pro excels. Its soft, sensitive, and grippy nature ensures a secure foothold on tricky terrain. On jibs and edges, the mildly downturned toe provides just enough bite to keep you en pointe. Climbers have reported successfully tackling 5.12+ vertical crimp climbs while wearing these shoes. However, larger climbers or those who prefer a roomier fit may notice slight buckling on volumes. Nevertheless, for climbers who value precise control, the Stealth C4 sole, squishy heel, jumbo toe patch, and overall softness make the Hiangle Pro a top choice.

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Pros and Cons

Pros:

  1. Sensitive and light on the feet.
  2. Very sticky 3D-molded C4 outsole.
  3. Beveled sole for fluency with volumes, hooking, and smearing, with mild bite for stable edging.

Cons:

  1. Deep, high heel cup can make on/off a bit fussy.
  2. All-black design may not be ideal for climbing in sunny conditions (although the Hiangle Pros are primarily intended for indoor and competition use).

In conclusion, the Five Ten Hiangle Pro is a game-changer in the world of climbing footwear. Its innovative design, collaborative craftsmanship, and exceptional versatility make it a top choice for both elite climbers and those looking to elevate their climbing experience. So, whether you’re eyeing the competition circuit or simply aiming to conquer your local gym’s routes, the Hiangle Pro has you covered.

FAQs

  1. What is the key feature that sets the Hiangle Pro apart from its predecessor? The Hiangle Pro features a beveled inside sole, a continuous curve heel, and a minimalist midsole design, all tailored for competition-style climbing.
  2. What is the benefit of the beveled inside sole in the Hiangle Pro? The beveled sole maximizes rubber-to-volume contact, providing climbers with enhanced control and precision.
  3. Can the Hiangle Pro be used for outdoor climbing as well? While it’s primarily designed for indoor and competition climbing, some climbers may find it suitable for specific outdoor routes.
  4. Is the Hiangle Pro available in different color options? Currently, the Hiangle Pro is available in an all-black design.
  5. What is the recommended sizing for the Hiangle Pro? For the best results, many climbers opt for their street-shoe size when choosing the Hiangle Pro, although sizing may vary depending on individual preferences.

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