scarpa mago

Basics of the Scarpa Mago: A High-Performance Climbing Shoe

If you’re a climbing enthusiast, you’re probably well aware that your choice of climbing gear can significantly impact your performance. One essential piece of equipment that can make or break your climbing experience is your climbing shoes. In this article, we delve into the basics of the Scarpa Mago, a high-end asymmetric climbing shoe designed for challenging terrains and steep climbs. From its unique features to pros and cons, we’ve got you covered.

Understanding the Scarpa Mago

The Scarpa Mago is not your average climbing shoe. It’s meticulously crafted to meet the demands of climbers who thrive in steep and challenging environments. Let’s take a closer look at its key features:

1. Microfiber Upper and Footbed

The Mago boasts a microfiber upper and footbed, providing durability and comfort. This material choice ensures that your feet stay snug and supported during intense climbs.

2. Supple Heel Cup with “PAF” System

The heel cup of the Mago is designed for comfort and performance. Scarpa’s innovative “PAF” (Progressive Ankle Flex) system ensures a snug and secure fit, reducing the risk of blisters and discomfort.

3. Stiff TPU Insert

Under the forefoot, you’ll find a stiff TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) insert. This feature enhances your climbing precision, allowing you to tackle steep inclines with confidence.

4. Vibram’s XS Grip 2 Rubber

The Mago is equipped with a 3.5mm Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber sole, providing excellent grip and traction. This rubber is known for its reliability on various surfaces, making it ideal for versatile climbing experiences.

See also  Scarpa's Vapor Lace Review

5. Super-Sticky M50 Rubber Toe Cap

To enhance your edging and grip on holds, the Mago features a super-sticky M50 rubber toe cap. This innovative addition allows you to trust your feet on even the smallest of footholds.

Pros of the Scarpa Mago

Now that we’ve covered the key features let’s explore the advantages of choosing the Scarpa Mago as your climbing shoe:

– Fast Break-In Period

One of the standout features of the Mago is its fast break-in period. Climbers often struggle with new shoes that require extensive wear before feeling comfortable, but the Mago is different.

– Excellent Steep-Edging Performance

If you’re into steep climbs, you’ll appreciate the Mago’s exceptional steep-edging performance. It’s designed to handle sharp angles and provide the support you need for challenging routes.

– Comfortable Relative to Its High Performance

Scarpa has managed to strike a balance between high performance and comfort with the Mago. You won’t have to sacrifice comfort for climbing excellence.

– Perforated Toe Cap for Pressure Relief

The perforated toe cap is a thoughtful addition for climbers with bunched-up toes. It relieves pressure and enhances overall comfort during climbs.

– Airy and Breathable Tongue

Climbing can be sweaty work, but the Mago’s airy and breathable tongue helps keep your feet cool and dry.

Cons to Consider

While the Scarpa Mago has many advantages, it’s essential to be aware of its limitations:

– Not as Supportive for Vertical Edging

If your climbing style heavily relies on vertical edging, you might find the new Mago to be less supportive compared to its predecessors.

See also  La Sportiva Skwama Vegan Review

Our Thoughts on the Scarpa Mago

Scarpa’s updated Mago is a remarkable shoe for challenging climbs. Its flexibility, combined with thoughtful design elements, makes it a versatile choice for climbers of various preferences. Whether you’re tackling granite boulders or limestone sport routes, the Mago has you covered. Its ability to transition from a slipper-like feel to a more rigid shoe for technical climbs is a testament to its design prowess.

However, when it comes to harder vertical climbing, some climbers may yearn for stiffer soles. If you rely on a single thin edge for support, you might find the earlier Mago models to be more suitable. It’s worth noting that the Mago tends to run small, so consider sizing up.


  • Size Reviewed: 41
  • Weight: 7.4oz (210g) per shoe
  • Price: $209
  • Brand: Scarpa


In conclusion, the Scarpa Mago is a top-notch climbing shoe that excels in steep and challenging terrains. Its innovative design, comfortable fit, and outstanding performance make it a reliable choice for climbers looking to push their limits. While it may not be the best option for vertical edging, its versatility and adaptability shine in various climbing scenarios. So, if you’re ready to take your climbing to the next level, give the Scarpa Mago a try.

Frequently Asked Questions

  1. Is the Scarpa Mago suitable for beginners?
    • While the Mago offers excellent performance, it’s better suited for experienced climbers who are comfortable with steep and challenging routes.
  2. How should I choose the right size for the Scarpa Mago?
    • It’s essential to size up when purchasing the Scarpa Mago, as it tends to run small compared to other climbing shoes.
  3. Can I use the Scarpa Mago for indoor climbing?
    • Yes, the Scarpa Mago is versatile enough for both indoor and outdoor climbing, making it a great choice for all-around climbers.
  4. What makes the Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber sole special?
    • Vibram’s XS Grip 2 rubber sole is known for its excellent grip and durability, providing climbers with confidence on various surfaces.
  5. Are there any specific care instructions for the Scarpa Mago?
    • To maintain the longevity of your Scarpa Mago climbing shoes, clean them regularly and store them in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

Similar Posts