New Route Established on India’s Meru Peak: A Triumph of Climbing Prowess

The spirit of adventure has always driven humans to explore the uncharted, conquer the unconquerable, and reach new heights – literally. In the world of mountaineering, there are few peaks more renowned and formidable than Meru, standing tall at 6,600 meters in India’s Garhwal Himalayas. Recently, a trio of intrepid climbers, Simon Gietl from Italy, Mathieu Maynadier from France, and Roger Schäli from Switzerland, etched their names in the annals of mountaineering history by establishing a brand new route on Meru – the 800-meter Goldfish M6+ A1. This article will take you on an exhilarating journey through their daring expedition.

The Quest Begins

In the lofty realm of the Garhwal Himalayas, the climbers embarked on their arduous journey, immediately encountering the harsh and unpredictable conditions of the glacier. Treacherous avalanches lurked around every corner, posing an ever-present threat. The challenges seemed insurmountable, yet they persevered.

Triumph Over Adversity

As they ascended higher, the final few hundred meters proved to be a nerve-wracking ordeal. The terrain was steep, exposed, and unforgiving. The climbers, however, remained undeterred by the formidable nature of their mission. Against all odds, they reached the summit at the break of dawn on May 13, a testament to their unparalleled determination and skill.

A Tale of Resilience

It’s worth noting that this wasn’t the first attempt at this daring feat. In 2019, Roger Schäli, Mathieu Maynadier, and Sean Villanueva ventured forth to conquer the same route but were thwarted by the mountain’s unyielding nature. It was a reminder that even the most experienced climbers can be humbled by the raw power of the Himalayas.

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A Historical Perspective

The significance of Meru in the world of mountaineering cannot be overstated. The famous Shark’s Fin route, which was the first ascent up the mountain, was initially conquered in October 2011 by Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, and Renan Ozturk. Their remarkable journey took eight grueling days to ascend and three days to descend. This incredible achievement was recognized by Guinness World Records as the first ascent of Meru, etching their names in history.

A History of Attempts

The history of attempts to conquer Meru dates back to 1986 when American climber Mugs Stump made the first serious effort. He returned in 1988, yet both attempts were thwarted by the relentless force of avalanches. Over the years, a dozen more climbers, including Johnny Dawes, Scott Backes, Nick Bullock, and Pete Takeda, among others, tried their luck but faced the same formidable foe.

Meru Central: A Glimpse of Victory

While Meru remained unconquered, climbers found success on its adjacent peak, Meru Central. In 2001, Valery Babanov achieved the first ascent of this lower peak, a feat that served as a beacon of hope for those who still aimed for the summit of Meru.

The Silver Screen

The allure of Meru has transcended the realm of climbing, finding its way into popular culture. In 2015, the feature film “Meru” was released, documenting the perilous journey of climbers attempting to conquer the Shark’s Fin route. This cinematic masterpiece brought the challenges of Meru to a global audience, further cementing its status as an iconic peak in the world of mountaineering.

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The triumphant ascent of the Goldfish M6+ A1 route on Meru by Simon Gietl, Mathieu Maynadier, and Roger Schäli is a testament to the indomitable human spirit and the relentless pursuit of adventure. This remarkable achievement adds another chapter to the storied history of Meru, a peak that has long captured the imagination of climbers worldwide.


1. Is Meru the highest peak in the Garhwal Himalayas?

No, Meru is not the highest peak in the Garhwal Himalayas. It stands at 6,600 meters, while peaks like Gangotri and Nanda Devi are higher.

2. How long did it take the climbers to establish the Goldfish M6+ A1 route?

The climbers took several days to establish the Goldfish M6+ A1 route, with the final push to the summit taking place on May 13.

3. What is the significance of the Shark’s Fin route on Meru?

The Shark’s Fin route on Meru is historically significant as it was the first line up the mountain, successfully climbed in 2011 by Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, and Renan Ozturk.

4. Are there any other famous peaks in the Garhwal Himalayas?

Yes, the Garhwal Himalayas are home to several famous peaks, including Nanda Devi, Kamet, and Trisul.

5. How can I learn more about the climbers’ journey on Meru?

You can watch the feature film “Meru,” released in 2015, which provides a gripping account of climbers’ attempts to conquer the Shark’s Fin route on Meru.

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